Forget everything you think you know about Australian wine: the critter labels, the mass produced bottles that sit on the bottom shelves of grocery stores, the full-throttle jammy-as-all-get-out Shiraz and nothing but Shiraz. What’s real is that Australia as a whole is in the midst of a glorious wine renaissance, and one of (if not the) most exciting areas in the country is South Australia, one of six broad Aussie “states.”

Within each state of Australia are zones, then regions, then sub-regions—each becoming smaller and more specifically geographically defined. It’s important to know that just like in the United States (and completely differently than in most of Europe), there are no grape variety or stylistic restrictions in each area, so growers and winemakers have full freedom of expression over what they plant and make… and that freedom has enabled tons of experimentation and innovation that have blossomed bright, balanced, terroir-influenced “new classics” for various regions.

In South Australia’s Adelaide super zone, which fans out from the dynamic port city/surf town of Adelaide into the foothills of the Mount Lofty Ranges, the new classics take advantage of cooling maritime influences, or altitude, or both, to bolster grapes’ acidity and temper sugar development—thereby also keeping the wines’ finished fruit profiles and alcohol levels in-check.

The most captivating modern wines include high-toned McLaren Vale Grenache from the sandy dunes off the Gulf St. Vincent, steely Clare Valley Riesling grown on slate soils often at altitude, and a floral, smoky and pepper-laced style of Barossa Shiraz that tastes nothing like blueberry pie.

Vine Mind Riesling Clare Valley 2021

Who: Colin McBryde, beloved and irreverent man-about-town in the Clare Valley and proprietor of the esteemed Adelina wines.

What: Steely fierce, lime-scented, bone dry and unapologetically mineral Riesling, the fruit for which is sourced from Colin’s certified sustainable grower friends and neighbors throughout this rocky, slate and limestone, higher elevation region.

Where: The northernmost growing region in the state of South Australia, which would normally in the southern hemisphere mean warmer climate, except for the fact that we’re up around 400-500 meters elevation and buffeted by chilly breezes whipping in off the ocean.

Why: Because Clare Valley Riesling like this—piercing, petrol-laden and taut—sits at the polar opposite end of the spectrum from any outdated notions of Australian wines being rich, boozy, fruity or oaky.

With: oysters Kilpatrick; Chinese sausage sautéed with cabbage; rock climbing

Ochota Barrels The Green Room Grenache Mclaren Vale 2024

Who: Amber Ochota is bravely, steadfastly, phenomenally carrying on the jaunty winemaking and suck-the-marrow-from-life-loving torch that she held with her husband and best surf buddy, Taras, after his all-too-early passing in 2020.

What: Punk-rock inspired, energetically elevated and yet texturally delicate, elegant, ethereal and transparent 82-year-old certified organic Grenache that feels as salty, fresh and free-wheeling as the brilliant and beloved family who makes it.

Where: File in “weird, but true”: This is grown on red loamy clay with ironstone over deep limestone, maybe five miles from the ocean but hidden from plain site… the vineyard is tucked just behind a leafy, suburban south-Adelaide neighborhood in the McLaren Vale GI (geographical indication).

Why: Because when you consider the category of “new Australian wines” and the current list of irreverent “influencers” behind them, almost every one of them can trace a piece of their family tree back to the Ochotas, who built this community both literally and figuratively and whose spirit—not to mention transparent wine style—greatly inspired all that’s currently exciting about Aussie wine.

With: jerk chicken; street tacos; high tide

Dandelion Lionheart of the barossa Shiraz BArossa 2021

Who: Elena Brooks hails from Bulgaria, having officially gotten her start in winemaking at one of the then-communist country’s massive state-owned wineries. At age 12, she was a translator for the Australians who visited the winery, and by 16, she was making her own Chardonnay! Eventually, communism fell, and she shipped off to Adelaide to study oenology formally, falling in love with both the South Australia region and a gentleman… the two started Dandelion in the early 2000s, focused on the exact opposite style of wines that were popular there at the time.

What: Gnarly, old-vine Shiraz with edges, made with tons of intention and no intervention.

Where: The Kincora Vineyard, about an hour’s drive northeast from Adelaide into the heart of the Barossa, past a couple hundred wild kangaroos and just as many eucalyptus trees, on loamy soil over iron-rich clay.

Why: Because Dandelion is a true champion of the quintessential old vines of Barossa, and they have a deft ability to thread the needle of freshness with depth and density in their Shiraz.

With: grilled lamb chops with pomegranate molasses; borani banjan; “when I was your age” stories from the relatives

Local Recipe Pairing: Aussie Oysters KilpatricK

Ingredients:

• 24 fresh oysters

• 2 slices cooked bacon, sliced or chopped

• 1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce

• 2 Tbsp unsalted butter

• Tabasco or other hot sauce of your choosing

• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Process:

1. Preheat your grill to the highest temperature.

2. In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the Worcestershire sauce and butter and cook until fully melted and starting to bubble. Remove from heat.

3. Spoon a little of the Worcestershire sauce and butter mixture over each open-faced oyster, then top with some bacon and season lightly with Tabasco, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.

4. Set oysters, shell side down, onto the grates of the grill so they don’t topple over. Grill for 2-3 minutes or until everything is hot and flavors are all melded.

5. Serve with a cold bottle of Clare Valley Riesling!

Melanie Pfister Lenz Gewurztraminer 2020

Who: Ms. Mélanie Pfister is the eighth generation Pfister in charge. She formally took over the family estate from her father in 2006, and prior to that, as her importer explains, “Mélanie did internships at the following estates: Zind-Humbrecht (Alsace), Méo-Camuzet (Burgundy), Château Cheval Blanc (Saint Emilion), Château d’Yquem (Sauternes) and Craggy Range (New Zealand). It’s worth considering that most aspiring winemakers would take it as a fine feather in the cap to be accepted into any one of those training programs, and Mélanie got into all of them.”

What: Biodynamically farmed, stainless-steel-fermented and aged Gewurztraminer that captures all the variety’s perfume but none of its cloying stickiness thanks to bottling with a minimal level of residual sugar.

Where: We’re in a limestone-marbled vineyard named Lenzerstuecker in the Bas Rhine here. It’s a bit confusing, but the Bas Rhine is the northern section of Alsace (bas means lower, whereas haut—as in Haut Rhine—means higher… though here the bas is north and the haut is south, since the Rhine River flows north to the Baltic). The Vosges mountains aren’t as tall or as protective in these parts, so the climate is cooler and the wines are more taught.

Why: Because haters gonna hate, and there’s a lot of Gewurztraminer haters. They only talk smack because they haven’t tried Mélanie’s dry and fierce Gewurz, which makes a compelling case for why the variety deserves more love (and a piece of stinky cheese to pair with it).

With: authentic Munster (not the sliced sandwich variety!); Massaman curry; rose garden wanders at dusk

Weinbach Riesling Alsace 2022

Who: The Faller family, and specifically Catherine Faller along with her sons, Eddy and Théo, is the current steward of this dramatically historic estate that was started by Capuchin monks in 1612. It was eventually sold off as a national property during the French Revolution, then was acquired by the Fallers in 1898. The founding monks named it Domaine Weinbach after the little stream that runs through the property.

What: Hand-picked, certified biodynamic, fully DRY Riesling grown on pebbles and sand—an ancient river bed—that sends out lightning bolts of exotic fragrance and reverberates with structure like long, rolling thunder.

Where: The valley of Kaysersberg, also known as the heart of Alsace, home of eight villages boasting medieval castles and the official Route des Vins d’Alsace.

Why: Because Weinbach is a veritable Alsace A-lister according to any and every wine pro and sommelier. These are wines that soar with aromatics and cut with minerality and acidity at the same time, and they are practically guaranteed to make a Riesling lover out of any skeptic.

With: flammekueche; Imperial rolls; thunderstorms

Paul Blanck Pinot Noir Alsace 2021

Who: Cousins Frédéric and Philippe Blanck, with a family lineage at this estate tracing back to the 17th century. Philippe is the gregarious impresario; Frédéric the quiet artist; the former runs the estate while the latter makes the wines, together offering inimitable hospitality and wholly compelling wine.

What: Finely etched Pinot Noir with purpose and poise that could easily be mistaken for red Burgundy… if not for its much lower price.

Where: The village of Kientzheim is also in the midsection of Alsace; it is surrounded by medieval ramparts, beneath which it’s rich with Pinot Noir’s favorite and most historic soil type: chalky limestone and clay.

Why: Because Pinot Noir isn’t going anywhere, and more—not less—people are falling in love with and seeking out the variety. That means the wines are getting more and more expensive, and so looking to lesser known regions (i.e. not Burgundy, not California, not Oregon or New Zealand) is a good bet for great quality. Alsace is climatically so well suited to the variety that it can turn out beautifully ripe yet phenomenally precise versions, and Paul Blanck’s is a benchmark.

With: Peking duck; mushroom biscuits and gravy; pillow forts

Sorelle Bronca Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry NV

Who: The actual sorelle Bronca (the Bronca sisters), Antonella and Ersiliana, doing everything from farming through production by their own four hands.

What: Ultra-classic, just ever so slightly off-dry sparkling Prosecco made in the Charmat method, wherein secondary fermentation is instigated in a large, pressurized stainless steel tank to create the signature bubbles. Because the wine spends no extra time aging on its spent yeast cells after this second fermentation (as there would be in, say, Champagne), great Prosecco like this is hyper-fresh, peachy/pear-y fruit-forward and festively frothy, ready to whet your appetite for brunch time biscuits or dinnertime fritto misto.

Where: On the steep hillsides in the heart of the most traditional Valdobbiadene subzone. As Prosecco as a whole became rather sadly synonymous with “cheap Italian sparkling,” top producers like Sorelle Bronca petitioned for the formation of an official and much more tightly regulated denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (DOCG) called Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco, which came online with the 2009 vintage.

Why: Because anyone who loves bubbles or breakfast or lunch or dinner or snack time or aperitivo hour deserves to know the simple joy of brilliantly aromatic Prosecco, and the Bronca sisters’ version has been our go-to for nearly a decade.

With: fresh-squeezed OJ; fritto misto; sibling rivalry

Dama del Rovere Bortolo VV Soave Classico 2018

Who: Davide and Massimo (Get it? Dama del Rovere?) Pra are essentially “Soave royalty” in this part of the world, owning some of the highest altitude vineyards as well as some of the oldest vines in the entire DOC. Dama also means “lady” and is a tribute to a carving of the Madonna on a rovere (oak tree) in their vineyard.

What: Supple, textured, fierce, archetypal almond- and lemon-scented Soave Classico from Garganega grapes growing on 100-year-old pergola-trained vines at over 1,500 feet elevation on the slopes of the ancient Monte Calvarina volcano.

Where: Like the aforementioned Bronca sisters, the Pra brothers are situated up in the northern, historic and classico heart of the Soave area. The altitude and volcanic soil structure combine to imbue the wines with way more nuance and intrigue than those grown down on the flat and fertile valley floor.

Why: Because there’s a reason so much so-so Soave started getting made… they were all trying to be great, like this, but cut too many corners. This is the epitome of great Italian everyday wine, chock full of minerality, acidity, depth and texture with freshness.

With: risi e bisi; lobster boils; vistas

Corte Sant'Alda Ca' Fiui Valpolicella 2022

Who: The charming and thoughtful-AF Marinella Camerani, who is always focused on trying to achieve better balance, giving herself grace and flexibility to constantly evolve both herself and her wines. She says things like: “We are women and so we are curious, even when we are working. The will to know, learn, try, is like feeling hungry. In certain moments the hunger grabs you, and you have to satisfy it! And we try, try…”

What: Precise and candy-cherry-red Valpolicella proper (not Ripasso or Amarone), mouth-filling and succulent yet not blown out or souped up, just right, carefully composed of the DOC’s permitted native grapes—all grown organically or biodynamically—Corvina Grossa, Corvina Veronese, Rondinella, Molinara plus a skosh of Croatina and Rossara.

Where: Marinella’s home property is called Corte Sant’Alda—”a wine cellar, a home, my family home.” Ca’ Fiui is the sunny, hillside area here within the Valpolicella-demarcated zone in which you’ll find Corte Sant’Alda, and the fruit comes from four named vineyards: Tomasotti, Bianchini, Rossetti and Cavallero.

Why: Because while so much of Valpolicella’s production caught onto the peak 1990s Amarone and Ripasso hype, becoming all about “more is more,” with the wines veering into sticky, syrupy concoctions, and even the “regular” Valpolicellas becoming bigger and riper and rounder, Corte Sant’Alda has remained a standard-bearer of the traditionalists. True to form, this wine has all the upright structure, crunchy red fruit and wisps of sun-baked herbs that made Valpolicella worth any attention in the first place (and, ahem, if you love old-school red Burgundy, this is extra worth your attention).

With: pasta e fagioli, turkey jerky and trail mix, when the hunger to learn and try grabs you

La Caña Navia Albariño Rías Baixas 2021

Who: Jorge Ordoñez, a the Spanish wine importer of note. He was the first quality-minded, small-production-focused importer of Spanish wines into the United States, and he was integral in turning the tide toward family wine estates in Spain. Always the champion of historic DOs (denominaciones de origen), old vines, native varieties, and highly responsible and planet- and people-forward viticulture, Jorge also invested in vineyards and properties that would have otherwise been lost; as a result he is now the owner of five estates throughout Spain, including Bodegas La Caña, which he named for the reeds or canes that line the shores of Rías Baixas and that often divide the sea from the vines.

What: Dense, powerful, age-worthy, chestnut-barrel fermented and long-lees-aged Albariño, paying homage to that style of the grape which was traditionally found in this area before massive commercialization became rampant. It is also emblematic of what Albariño can (and should??) be: succulent and lip-smacking in its ripe citrus and tropical fruit, all sprinkled with sea salt and the slightest whiff of lilies.

Where: A 20-second skinny-dip sprint from the ocean, in the sandy granite soil of the Val do Salnés subzone of Rías Baixas, where the Atlantic influence is the most intense and the winemaking is the most traditional and old-school, the vines all lifted up overhead on granite posts. Jorge likes to point out that we’re at the same latitude here as New England, and sharing the same ultimate Atlantic Ocean.

Why: Because Jorge was literally the first person to bring Albariño into the United States (he loves to regale clients with the story of how New Yorkers in the 90s all rejected his cherished Albariño offerings), and he’s the most tuned into the traditions of the small family winemakers of Rías Baixas, and he’s channeled all of that spirit and savvy into his La Caña label. This is the opposite of any simplistic, mass-produced, cheap-and-cheerful Albariño, and it shows off the bright promise we know this region’s wines have.

With: lobster rolls; fregola sarda with spring herbs, lemon and capers; pioneering

Rafael Palacios Godello Louro do Bolo Valdeorras 2022

Who: Rafael Palacios is the Valdeorras champion of Godello, with a Burgundian-like dedication to site-specificity and terroir expression for this underrated yet ascendant Galician variety. He made wine for prestigious label Valdesil, itself a champion of single-vineyard Godellos, for a decade before cobbling together his own micro-portfolio of all high-elevation, steep and terraced, granite-rock-based plots that he now farms organically and biodynamically.

What: Godello with precision and clarity, dipping its toes into the exotic, tropical and floral notes the variety often showcases—but also sinewy with minerality and a razor-thin edge of acidity.

Where: Rafael makes this “Louro do Bolo” with fruit from his younger vines across multiple sortes (Galician for “parcels”), but they’re all up around 700 meters’ elevation on the western edge of Valdeorras, near the town of O Bolo, where there’s more cooling Atlantic influence (resulting in leaner fruit and brighter acidity in the wines).

Why: Because if Godello comes even close to witnessing the meteoric rise that Albariño did, you deserve to get in on the ground level, and Rafael Palacios’s versions are the absolute gold-star students of this “valley of gold.”

With: gambas al ajillo with saffron aioli; pineapple pork adobo; rock climbing

Local Recipe Pairing: Gambas con aioli

Ingredients:

• 3 tablespoons lemon juice

• 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads

• 3 garlic cloves, chopped

• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• 3 large egg yolks

• 1 1/3 cups canola oil

• 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 cup dry white wine

• 2 pounds shell-on raw large shrimp

• 1/2 teaspoon ground piment d’Espelette

Process:

1. Combine lemon juice and saffron in a small bowl. Let stand 15 minutes. Using flat side of a knife, mash garlic to a paste with 1/2 teaspoon salt on a cutting board. Place lemon juice mixture, garlic paste, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, Dijon, and egg yolks in the bowl of a food processor. With machine running, slowly drizzle canola oil and olive oil, alternating with splashes of cold water, into food processor until all oil is added. Spoon aïoli into a bowl and chill until ready to serve.

2. Add wine to a large pot of boiling water and salt heavily (it should taste like sea water). Add shrimp and cook until just opaque, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove with a mesh skimmer and rinse shrimp under cold water.

3. Peel shrimp, leaving tail intact. Sprinkle aioli with piment d’Espelette and place bowl of aioli in the center of a large platter. Arrange shrimp on the platter and serve with Galician Godello or Albariño—or, ideally, both.

La Ca’Növa Barbaresco 2020

Who: The unapologetically old-school, no-fuss-no-muss Rocca brothers, who split their time between highly involved vineyard and minimal intervention cellar work conducted entirely by their hands only.

What: Nebbiolo, in all its potpourri-perfumed, wintergreen and smoky-roses glory. In comparison to the next-door DOCG of Barolo, Barbaresco in this most classic form showcases perhaps more up-front red fruit, plus profound delicacy and elegance even while its acidity and tannins remain prominent and proud… just begging for a buttery mushroom pasta situation.

Where: A stone’s throw northeast of the town of Alba, the vineyards of Barbaresco peer over the banks of the River Tanaro. Specifically, La Ca’Növa’s parcels are in the primo south- and southeast-facing sites of Montestefano and Montefico—before the Roccas made their own wine, they sold this fruit to the Barbaresco behemoth and most prestigious critical darling, Angelo Gaja.

Why: Because this is basically the benchmark for unadulterated, traditional Barbaresco; it’s a bottle that requires patience and a suitable food pairing but not (shockingly, given the recent trajectory of this DOCG and these collectors-item wines) a wild budget.

With: tajarin al tartufo; hazelnut gnocchi with gorgonzola cream sauce; winter solstice

Nada Dolcetto d’Alba 2021

Who: Humble and dedicated Giuseppe and Nella Nada work their certified organic vineyards, while their daughter Barbara manages the paperwork and admin, and their son Enrico tends to the cellar and wines.

What: Pure, dark, vibrant and fresh Dolcetto from the commune of Alba. While it’s always mentioned that Dolcetto translates to “little sweet one,” it’s also always followed by the observation that these wines are not exactly little, nor remotely sweet. This is one of the most classic versions we’ve come across, positively dry and yummy with plump black cherries and balsamic notes helmed by delicate tannins and brisk acidity.

Where: South of Barbaresco, higher up on hillsides that can be too cool to ripen Nebbiolo, sit the town and vineyards of Treiso, where Dolcetto typically plays first fiddle. Nada’s Dolcetto comes from a much-respected parcel called Marcarini up near 350 meters.

Why: Because, especially this time of year, everyone wants (needs?!) a thoughtfully made, workhorse weeknight red that over-delivers with almost any food you can fling at it, that you can buy and enjoy again and again and again and not get tired of it. Leave it to an old Piemontese family like the Nadas to figure that out and deliver it here to us.  

With: taco night; pizza delivery; sledding

Ronchi di Giancarlo Rocca Terlé Barbera d’Alba 2019

Who: Giancarlo Rocca and his family, who have lived, tended vines, and made wine in this same spot for four generations.

What: Lip-smacking, thrilling and silky red-plummy Barbera that punches above its weight thanks to having been raised in a combination of used French oak barrels and the house’s traditional, large, old Slavonian oak botti.

Where: As Giancarlo likes to explain, he can walk from his breakfast nook to his vineyards in less than a minute. Both are in the Ronchi “cru” roughly one kilometer southeast of the town center of Barbaresco or about five kilometers northwest of the town of Alba.

Why: Because we should all take a cue from the Barbaresco winemakers themselves, who save their Nebbiolos to drink for special occasions and dip into their Barberas for everyday enjoyment. And because terlé in local dialect means “emotionally thrilled” or immensely moved by joyful events, which is how we feel when we open this bottle.  

With: spaghetti and meatballs; shakshuka; joy

Côte d’Or (Burgundy), France

This Fantastic Voyage, we’re continuing our Big Burgundy Exploration, picking up from our Summer Quarter’s journey up north and touring south into the beating golden heart of Bourgogne: the Côte d’Or. Literally translated, this is the Slope of Gold, where vaunted hillside vineyards stare perfectly southeast, catching and basking in the warm golden rays of morning-into-early-afternoon sunshine. The combination of exposure and clay-limestone soil plus this juuuuust right latitude (47.5°N!) ripens Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes to pure perfection, inspiring countless attempts at imitation around the globe.

When people who love wine talk about Burgundy, they’re typically talking about this 31-mile-long Côte d’Or tenderloin, which is further broken up into the northern Côte de Nuits sub-region and the southern Côte de Beaune. But that’s just the beginning; appellations of origin (AOPs) are often name-dropped on labels by specific village (i.e. Gevrey-Chambertin, Aloxe-Corton, Puligny-Montrachet) within the sub-regions, and even specific lieux dits (named vineyards) or Premier or Grand Cru vineyards can be exclusively listed on labels. It goes like this from most general to most specific:

Region (Bourgogne) > Sub-Region (Côte d’Or) > Sub-Sub-Region (e.g. Côte de Nuits) > Village (e.g. Gevrey-Chambertin) > Vineyard (e.g. Chambertin-Clos de Bèze)

Supply and demand has dictated that many Côte d’Or bottlings have gotten prohibitively expensive for all but truly special occasions, but looking to great producers’ “lower tier” bottlings (i.e. a regional designation rather than vineyard-specific wine) is the insider route to affordable greatness—and that’s exactly what we’ve done here.

Thibault Liger-Belair Bourgogne AligotÉ Clos Des PerriÈres La Combe 2018

Who: Thibault Liger-Belair literally descended from Burgundy royalty and inherited a pile of pretttty prestigious Côte d’Or vineyards in 2001, when he left behind his tech and communications job to tend his family’s vines (all certified organic) and make wine himself.

What: The “other white wine” of Burgundy, Aligoté got a bad wrap as a subpar variety to Chardonnay for way too long, thought to be thin and shrill with its acidity, incapable of complexity or nuance. And yet… we dare you to say such things to this puppy.

Where: In the village of Nuits-Saint-Georges (Côte de Nuits), right up against the old perrière (French for “quarry”), Liger-Belair planted Aligoté in 1978 (that’s 45-year-old vines!). The old vines generate less—but much more concentrated, complex—fruit, and the shallow limestone plot faces due south, capitalizing on full days of sunshine to ripen the grapes to an uncommon density and succulence for this “humble” variety.

Why: Because as prices of true Côte d’Or Bourgogne Blanc (Chard) have soared, consumers have discovered that icon producers’ Aligotés (like that of Liger-Belair!) can deliver the same undeniable terroir signature—stern, limestone minerality plus citrus curd-imbued acidity and smoke notes—at a fraction of the price.

With: charred black cod over grits with tomato coulis; Brillat-Savarin cheese; wine nerds

Camus Bruchon Savigny-les-Beaune Blanc 2020

Who: Guillaume Camus is a vigneron through and through, spending the majority of his time in the vines his grandmother first bought in the 1950s. His approach is what’s locally acknowledged as lutte raisonnée: the “reasoned struggle,” meaning he farms sustainably, by hand, avoiding chemicals whenever possible, without subscribing to a dogmatic certification, learning and adapting as he goes based on what the vines tell him they need.

What: Old-school, very cool-climate, sleek, mineral-grounded Chardonnay. No nonsense, and none of those “new world” tropical or buttery or toasted oaky notes.

Where: The village of Savigny-les-Beaune stares up at the most lauded site for Chardonnay in the world, the hill of Corton… and the grandest Grand Cru of them all, Corton-Charlemagne.

Why: Because this fruit is not grown on said hillside, but rather around 2,000 feet just west of it—and still on the same chalky clay-limestone soil—wines from it sneak into the market at a minuscule fraction of the price.

With: poulet a la crème et aux champignons; Dungeness crab dipped in butter; Monday Night Football

Agnès Paquet Les Craquamots Bourgogne Rouge 2021

Who: Agnès Paquet is another lucky inheritance duck, taking over her family’s vineyard when she was just 20 years old in order to keep them from selling the land. Fun common thread with her and the aforementioned estate (Liger-Belair), Agnès also had her first vintage in 2001, fully teaching herself everything along the way, including converting to organic viticulture and reducing her intervention in the winery significantly.

What: Pure, un-fussed-with Pinot Noir showcasing all the precision, firm mineral outline, and crunchy red fruit coloring in the lines that this area can boast.

Where: A little parcel of vines called “Les Craquamots” in the Côte de Beaune’s village of Pommard, which is known for its sturdy, velvety Pinot Noirs. While many lieux dits (named vineyard sites) in Burgundy are named for their character or a local reference, it’s unclear what craquamot refers to, but we hope it’s a play on craquant, which means “crunchy and irresistible.”

Why: Because everyone deserves an accessible, reference-point introduction to the Pinot Noirs that inspired global mimicry. And in a sea of ho-hum suitors, Agnès’s over-delivers with great production integrity to boot.

With: five spice duck breast; wild mushroom shoyu ramen; watching the leaves turn

Vincent Dampt Chablis 2022

Who: Vincent Dampt literally grew up in the vineyards here in Chablis, and by the age of 14 he enrolled himself in the oenology program at the university in Beaune so he could learn how to make wine before inheriting his parcel of vines.

What: The opposite of what the unassuming masses might expect from Chardonnay. This area’s cool climate and Kimmeridgian limestone, plus fermentation with only native yeasts and all stainless steel tank fermentation and aging (no oak anywhere) make for a reference point Chardonnay in its purest, most traditional form possible: clean, fresh, transparent, all lemon and green apple notes pinned with chalk and oyster shell.

Where: This is the heart of Chablis proper, from four different vineyards, each nestled at the base of a 1er Cru, all sloping towards the central Serein River, and all on the seashell-fossil-filled Kimmeridgian limestone that’s signature to the area.

Why: Because this is the mother country of Chardonnay, and drinking un-fussed-with Chablis is central to understanding this grape’s origin story.

With: oysters; gougères; stand up paddle boarding

Jean Collet Saint-Bris 2021

Who: Romain Collet took the reins from his father, Gilles (who took the reins from his father, Jean) in 2008 at the ripe age of 21. Based in Chablis proper, where he quickly converted his plots to organic and then biodynamic farming, he got the opportunity to collaborate with a good friend of his who sustainably tends vineyards 20 minutes down the road in Saint-Bris, and his style here is a continuation of his overall polished yet supple, fun-loving signature.

What: A classic piece of wine trivia—Saint-Bris is an appellation exclusively for Sauvignon Blanc, a total outlier here in Burgundy, where the region is otherwise almost entirely planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Wines from Saint-Bris boast the decidedly much more steely, minerally face of Sauvignon Blanc, this being perhaps the coolest climate in the world for growing this variety (other primary areas being the Loire Valley an hour and a half southwest of here, New Zealand and California). Romain’s is raised in old oak barrels to soften the edges and lend a little bounce to the otherwise angular profile.

Where: A 20-minute drive southwest from Chablis, the town of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux sits on a particularly nutrient-poor piece of limestone that tames the natural vigor of Sauvignon Blanc (Chardonnay planted here would struggle too much, so this choice of variety is pragmatic).

Why: Because as Sancerre and other name-brand Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs continue to scream upwards in price, novel insider-y alternatives—especially when made with the thoughtfulness and integrity of folks like Romain Collet—are outstanding options that deliver all the fresh-herb verdancy and stony minerality we crave in old-school Sauvignon Blancs at incredible value.

With: a crusty baguette and crottin de chèvre; sushi and seaweed salad; bounce houses

Domaine felix côtes d’auxerre 2019

Who: The same proud yet humble Felix family dating back to 1690 (and likely longer, but that’s where the written family archives end) on this same piece of land. These are the stories that make us Americans melancholy—ah, to be born on the same slice of Earth where our great-great-great-great-great-great grandparents played as children… to inherit a literal piece of your family history… to know deeply and profoundly “where you’re from” and to have the opportunity and purpose to steward that forward…

What: Silky, energetic, standard-bearing cool-climate Pinot Noir in all its high-toned, crunchy-red-fruit and mineral-veined glory, the likes of which has inspired imitations the world over.

Where: The Côtes d’Auxerre literally translates to the “hills of Auxerre” and therefore is an appellation of hillsides scattered around the Yonne departmente’s capital city. Auxerre was once a provincial capital of the Roman Empire, and today you can still visit the old Roman and Gothic cathedrals and churches that originally housed the monks that studied and tended Burgundy’s vineyards so fastidiously.

Why: Because this a prime old-school classic example of acidity-bolstered, tannin-diminished, earth-forward and fruit-secondary Pinot Noir that points to what truly cool-climate Burgundy was when it first inspired Pinot plantings the world over. And because, as red Burgundy from further south has skyrocketed in price while its fans the world over have proliferated, this remains an insane value.

With: duck rillettes; japchae; tightening your budget

Tyler Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2021

Who: Justin Willet has long been one of our personal favorite winemakes in California (ermm, we might even say in the world), specifically because his Chardonnays from Santa Barbara drink very very very much like a very very very good white Burgundy, but with a soupçon of a joy-boost from the inescapable SoCal sunshine, all of which reminds us why we’re so very happy to live (and drink) in this great Golden State. If anyone could understand and showcase Santa Barbara County terroir, it would be Justin, who was born and raised here in SB, went to college here, learned how to make wine here, and now has his own label here.

What: Chardonnay that’s lit up with acidity and grounded by minerality, about as far a cry from what you thought you knew as “California oaky-buttery Chardonnay.”

Where: Most of the Tyler Santa Barbara County Chardonnay comes from the Kick-On Ranch vineyard, which sits just ten miles from the cool (sometimes even downright cold) Pacific coast, due west of the town of Los Alamos. Kick-On is basically an ancient sand dune complex turned up from a once-upon-a-time seabed, so it’s also littered with sea fossils.

Why: Because this is a benchmark for how terroir (specifically Santa Barbara’s cool, coastal climate) can change the game for a grape, especially one like Chardonnay.

With: roast chicken; clam chowder; long walks on the beach

Sandhi Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills 2021

Who: Sommelier-superstar-turned-winemaker Raj Parr and Santa Barbara winemaking legend Sashi Moorman, on a team project designed to highlight the unique characterstics of the Santa Barbara County winegrowing region.

What: Pinot Noir, but make it taut. Make it how you feel after shivering by the foggy coastline, in those melting moments when the sun finally burns through the clouds, and your shoulders drop from your ears just a hint, and your hands come out from being stuffed in your pockets to feel the warm rays directly on your skin, your smile starting to return with joy at the afternoon ahead.

Where: The Sta. Rita Hills (must be written “Sta.” and never Santa Rita, thanks to a trademark lawsuit from a large Chilean brand, Viña Santa Rita!) are hillsides of ancient seabed: diatomaceous shale pushed up from tectonic movement so that they directly face the churning Pacific in all its chilly, fog-inflicting fierceness. As Raj and Sashi explain about their vineyard on the site of their other main winemaking project, “We came to this place seeking an antithesis of the preordained richness of new world winelands, where plump and generous wines seemed inevitable, in search of a site that compels vines and people together to struggle in a productive way that can be overcome only by hands and effort, observation, and ingenuity.” The majority (94%) of fruit for this Sandhi Pinot comes from their La Cote vineyards at the very western edge of this Sta. Rita Hills AVA.

Why: Because while the infamously finicky, cool-climate-loving Pinot Noir grape has become ubiquitous almost worldwide, we humbly assert that Santa Barbara may be one of the greatest places in the world to showcase its incredible, beguiling, ethereal potential.

With: smoky bacon-studded Santa Maria Pinquito baked beans; vegetable mu shu; pen pals

Presqu’ile Syrah santa barbara county 2020

Who: Owner Matt Murphy and winemaker Dieter Cronje. Matt’s family purchased this land in 2007 (they named it presqu’ile, which means “almost an island,” in tribute to their original family homestead on the Mississippi Sound, which was fully destroyed in Hurricane Katrina in 2005), and Matt and Dieter had been local winemaking friends prior to officially partnering here with the goal of making world-class cool-climate Pinot.

What: Syrah, not Pinot! Turns out this thicker-skinned, black-fruited grape also shines here, showing off its more woodsy, black olive, smoked meat and peppercorn side thanks to the chilly weather.

Where: In the Santa Maria Valley AVA, which Matt calls “a cold desert” with average temperatures on par with Champagne and average rainfall only 12 inches. Specifically, the Presqu’ile vineyard and winery are about 20 minutes’ drive from the town of Santa Maria, and just 10 minutes’ from renowned historic vineyard sites in the area like Bien Nacido and Le Bon Climat.

Why: Because the structured and savory side of Syrah aren’t to be missed, especially if all you’ve thought it was capable of was jamminess, and because, culinarily, Santa Maria is renowned for its tri-tip, which knows no better pairing than this!

With: grilled Santa Maria tri-tip steak; kalamata olive bread smeared with smashed favas; weathering the storm

Tokaj, Hungary

UNDERDOG ALERT!!! If you haven’t been paying attention to Tokaj, happily that’s all about to change thanks to your participation here! You can thank us later. This winegrowing appellation in northeastern Hungary is not only one of the most historically GREAT wine regions in the world, but today it’s experiencing a renaissance that savvy drinkers would be wise to sit up, pay attention to and even invest in.

First, the history: Royal documents dating back over 400 years repeatedly notate the delicious wine coming out of vineyards around the town of Tokaj; these wines were both gifted and used as payment, a bargaining agent in trade negotiations, and even medicinally. In the early 1700s, the vineyards of Tokaj were organized hierarchically into first, second, third and unclassified growths, and by 1737 Tokaj officially became the first formally demarcated winegrowing region in the world—this predates the French appellation of origin system by 200 years! Today? The region is so historically important, it’s been deemed a UNESCO world heritage site. Boom.

And yes, historically, the wines were all sweet, made from grapes affected by botrytis cinerea, a “noble rot” that shrivels healthy grapes into little mold-covered raisins (sounds yum, we know). This noble rot happens only when grapes are perfectly ripe and humidity is juuuuuust right—an overall very rare condition that fortuitously occurs with some regularity here in Tokaj due to a perfect juxtaposition of dry, warm air coming into the area from the southern plains along with the convergence of two rivers (Bodrog and Tisza) whose rising mists are like a nurturing momma puffing warm breath onto her little one’s chilly hands in autumn.

Next up: Tokaji vs. Tokaj. That i at the end of the word means we’re talking about the wine from the place Tokaj. Tokaji = wine from Tokaj. Tokaj = village or wine region. And yes, Tokaji is still often sweet today, but dessert wines are just one act in a full opera of Tokajis ranging from sparkling to dry still wines to sweet ones.

Kikelet Late Harvest Tokaj 2018

Who: Stéphanie is a French oenologist who moved to Tokaj to make wine at a large, French-owned estate in the region. She fell in love with and married Zsolt Berecz, whose family has been living in the village of Torcal, within Tokaj, for over 200 years. There, over the family’s ancient cellars carved into rock, they founded their own winery called Kikelet (“springtime”) and have steadily amassed a total of five hectares of top-notch vineyards in the area, notably making both sweet AND many dry wines. Stéphanie was actually the first in this town to ever make dry wines, and she prides herself on doing everything herself, in house; as a result, she has gained the recognition and respect of her peers locally, who in 2014 named her the “Winemaker of the Winemakers.”

What: Hometown hero grapes Furmint, Hárslevelú, Zéta and Yellow Muscat, all harvested late in the warm 2018 season, garnering unusual ripeness with a kiss of botrytis as well. The first two varieties are the most renowned in Tokaj, especially for their distinctly high acidities coupled with their propensity to succumb to noble rot, thereby uniquely capable of evolving into gorgeously luscious albeit bright—even refreshing(!)—dessert wines.

Where: Torcal is a village in the southernmost portion of the Tokaj region, and directly adjacent to the town itself named Tokaj. The Kikelet vineyards all face south and southwest on volcanic soil covered by loess.

Why: Because Kikelet is an exemplar of the “modern” Tokaj estate, both respecting the legendary vineyard sites and historical dessert styles while also mindful of the global palate for delicious dry wines. And because this late-harvest wine is a shining example of how sweet styles shouldn’t be feared: They can also be phenomenally balanced and totally drinkable.

With: bread pudding with golden raisins; aged Gouda; Santa, baby ;)

Tokaj Nobilis Rány dulo Furmint Tokaj 2019

Who: Sarolta Bárdos was born and raised in Tokaj and is locally considered a bit of a matriarch for the region, hyper mindful of both the challenges and opportunities present for making and selling wine here. She planted her own six hectares in 1999, and in 2005 she converted a traditional 19th century house into a winery and cellar in the middle of the town of Bodrogkeresztúr.

What: Furmint, the reigning Queen Grape of Tokaj, with its famously screaming acidity, bold, dense and spicy profile—in this case, all of its sugar fermented into a completely dry finished wine.

Where: Dúló (which should, if we’re being technical, have two accents like Dűlő, except that this font can’t type that) means “vineyard” or “parcel” in Hungarian, so this is from the Rány vineyard, which has been classified as a “first growth” Tokaj (top notch!!) since 1798! The site is extremely rocky and nigh impossible to farm, requiring entirely manual TLC, which Sarolta doles out on her vines like a loving mother hen.

Why: Because dense, dry styles of Furmint-based Tokaji are in the 2022 Homecoming Court as Most Likely to Garner Global Acclaim. And while lesser sites and stewards leave us slightly teary from their weight and nearly masochistic acidity, Sarolta has gorgeously coaxed out all the powerful, fruity-salty-spicy-minerally extract that the grape and region are capable of.

With: chicken paprikash; falafel and sumac-heavy tzatziki; learning new languages

Homoky dorka Pet Nat Tokaj 2021

Who: Ahhhh, this is DOPE: Dorka Homorky is one of the young women who literally grew up in Tokaj inspired and mentored by women like Sarolta Bárdos and Stéphanie Berecz (see above!!)… we’re bringing it full circle here, today. Like her rising star peers in other established wine regions around the world, Dorka has learned from local trailblazers and legends and is simultaneously dedicated to revitalizing her home region, infusing it with innovation and a deep reverence for the planet.

What: A pétillant naturel (sparkling wine, unfined/filtered, still finishing its primary fermentation in the bottle) from Furmint and Hárslevelú… she’s alive! Make sure the bottle is properly chilled and you have a glass ready to pour into!

Where: The village of Tállya is in the northeast of Tokaj. In the heyday of Tokaj (circa 1800), this was where many of the 1st growth vineyards were found, but today it’s more off-the-radar and less populated. Dorka’s pet nat comes from the Dongó, Hetény and Nyergesek dúlós, which are all notorious for producing wines with craaaaazy acidity, so making them into either sparkling or sweet styles is strongly preferred to dry ones, which would be… er… a bit brutal!

Why: Because a comprehensive snapshot of the full-scale renaissance happening in Tokaj today would be incomplete without a sparkling wine, and because Dorka Homoky’s au courrant approach to bubbles (a wild, eminently drinkable pet nat) is emblematic of the youthful vivacity both literally and figuratively bubbling up in this legendary region.

With: lángos with sour cream; harissa-roasted squash; mentorship meetings

Local tokaj recipe pairing:
LÁngos with sour cream

Makes 4 medium-sized flatbreads or 8 smaller ones

Ingredients:

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• ½ teaspoon salt

• ½ teaspoon sugar

• 1¼ teaspoon instant yeast

• 1 cup lukewarm milk (250 ml)

• Oil for frying

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 2 Tbsp olive oil

• 1 cup sour cream

• 1 cup shredded white cheddar cheese

Steps:

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine flour, salt and sugar. Mix gently with a spoon, then add yeast and warm milk and stir to combine.

2. With the dough hook attached to the mixer, mix on low speed for 3-4 minutes until well combined.

3. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and a clean towel. Let the dough proof in a warm place until doubled in size (45-60 minutes at least, or up to 90 minutes depending on temperature of your room).

4. When ready, transfer the dough onto a well-floured work top. Divide into 4-8 equal pieces. Roll out each piece with a rolling pin until about ¼-inch thick.

5. Heat oil to 350°F in a fryer or a large, heavy-bottomed pan (for a 5-quart Dutch oven you’ll need about 2 cups of oil).

6. Add one piece of dough and fry for 1 minute before flipping and frying for an additional 30-60 seconds until golden brown.

7. Drain on paper towels and top with your choice of olive oil, garlic, sour cream and cheese; serve with any Tokaji!

Marlborough, New Zealand

We probably have Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc to thank for putting the entire country of New Zealand on the global wine map at all. Before “Savvy B’s” screaming debut as the wine drinker’s darling in the 1990s, New Zealand wine was… well… decidedly on the struggle bus. A slew of hardships (most notably phylloxera and a severe temperance movement in the country that lingered even into the 1970s and 80s) kept the local wine industry well behind the rest of the world. And while this beloved and extroverted wine style was certainly a boon for quality wine production here, 30 years later, Marlborough could be argued to suffer from type-casting.

“We have so much more to offer!” you can hear this region on the northern tip of New Zealand’s South Island insisting while lovers of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc pound their fists for more, and while haters roll their eyes and venture any elsewhere. They’re not wrong. The impressively sunny and dry but cool region boasts over two-thirds of the country’s total vines, all of which benefit from this nearly ideal climate and exposure and can positively stun wine drinkers with an entire cast of varietal characters (although, ahem, 80% of Marlborough is planted to SB).

Three distinct sub-regions of Marlborough run roughly east to west from Cloudy Bay (the actual Bay, not the winery) on the Cook Straight (which separates Te Ika-a-Māui, or the North Island, from Te Waipounamu, or the South Island) into the Awatere Valley. Wairau Valley is the northernmost and runs along the banks of the Wairau River; the Southern Valleys are in the middle; the Awatere Valley sub-region is southernmost and gains in elevation as it climbs into the Kaikoura Ranges. As the wine industry in Marlborough matures, these sub-regions and their various microclimates and diverse soil types will continue to shape a more diverse future for the region’s wines.

Huia Pinot Noir Marlborough 2016

Who: Mike and Claire Allen, a husband and wife viticulture and winemaking team pushing the organics envelope in Marlborough.

What: Pinot Noir, the global sweetheart, showcasing here the generosity of sunshine that graces this neck of the woods by way of perfectly ripe red berry fruits and an almost-sweet Cola component yet with impeccable acidity to keep the whole show lifted and refreshing.

Where: They chose the little Rapaura corner of Marlboroug’s Wairau Valley because—in their own words, “It seemed to have the brightest sunshine, the most intensely flavoured wines, be stunningly beautiful and have an endless supply of the freshest produce.” Their vineyards boast alluvial and well-draining stony soils.

Why: Because while people pretend that Pinot can be grown anywhere, in truth it really needs a particularly cool climate with ample sunshine to really thrive and showcase its full potential—and few places in the world nail this like Marlborough. If you want the sun-kissed deliciousness of California but with the lighter weight and elegance of Burgundy, look no further.

With: According to Mike and Claire themselves, wild rabbit stew, grilled eggplant with tahini, or (according to us) casual weeknight happy hours with friends

Awatere River Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021

Who: The Vavasour family are Marlborough winemaking royalty, having settled here in the Awatere River region in 1887 and pioneering grape-growing and winemaking here by planting the first vines and starting the first winery in 1986.

What: Iconic, standard-bearer Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and a total embodiment of the Marlborough lifestyle, which, as winemaker and founder Louis Vavasour says, “is about fun days kicking back at the beach with friends and family—fishing, diving for scallops, or sailing the tranquil Sounds.”

Where: At the head of Marlborough’s Awatere Valley is Mount Tapuae-o-uenuku—the highest peak outside of New Zealand’s Main Divide. Its glaciers feed the Awatere River, which meanders its way through the property.

Why: Because this is one of the trailblazers of the entire region and is still rocking it with integrity, a fierce dedication to incredibly high quality standards and an old-school winemaking approach. And because this wine is unapologetic about the Kiwi lifestyle, its obvious deliciousness and laid back, good-times vibe. Basically, if you want to hate on Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc or all the beachy beauty of this place, well… your loss.

With: pan-seared scallops with passion fruit sauce; chips and guacamole; swimsuits and salty hair

Mahi Pinot Gris Marlborough 2021

Who: Brian Bicknell and his wife Nicola came back to put down roots (literally and figuratively) in Marlborough after Brian (who had made wine at top estates all over the world) dealt with his dad’s diagnosis of terminal cancer. Nothing like staring mortality in the face to force you to make the most of your precious time in this world.

What: Pinot Gris (shout out to this rising star variety in this part of the world!) made not just with awesome environmental stewardship, and not just with mindful minimal intervention in the cellar, but also with a profound intention to work with people who are dedicated to both quality and kindness. As Brian says, “You can have a great site, but if the management is poor, or the owners too greedy, then this will be reflected in the fruit, and therefore the subsequent wines.”

Where: Throughout the Marlborough region, Brian seeks out vineyards that are responsibly managed. His goal with Mahi is to highlight the individuality and diversity of the various valleys and vineyards throughout Marlborough. The Pinot Gris comes from Sara Davies and Andrew Craig’s particularly cool-climate vineyard outside the town of Ward in the southernmost section of Awatere River.

Why: Because no matter which side of the love/hate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc coin you’re on, this area’s Pinot Gris should have your attention, flaunting—as brilliantly demonstrated by Mahi here—a perfect lusciousness of texture and the region’s signature juicy-ripe fruit while simultaneously managing a vivacious, almost zesty lift and whiff of salinity that keeps the whole show invigorated and intriguing.

With: is it too obvious to suggest… grilled Mahi Mahi; creamy, softly spiced coconut squash soup; expanding your horizons and trying new things

Local Marlborough recipe pairing:
Seared scallops with Citrus and passion fruit

Serves 2 as a main course or 4 as an appetizer

Ingredients:

• 1 lb scallops (any size you prefer, but we love those that are roughly 1.5 inches in diameter when fresh)

• Juice from 2 oranges (roughly ¾ cup)

• 1 cup vegetable stock (or fish or chicken if available)

• 1 ripe passion fruit

• 4 Tbsp butter, chilled and cut into ½-inch cubes

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 tablespoons avocado or vegetable oil

• 1 jalapeño or serrano chile pepper, sliced paper thin

Steps:

• Pat the scallops dry, season lightly with salt and pepper, and let rest on a tea towel to remove as much moisture as possible.

• Bring orange juice and stock to boil in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook, reducing the liquid until you have ¼ cup of reduction sauce.

• Cut the passion fruit in half and scoop the seeds into the sauce. Reduce the heat to low and whisk cold butter into the reduction, one cube at a time. You should have a shiny sauce that coats the back of a spoon. Season with a pinch of salt.

• Heat oil in a large skillet over high heat until shimmering. Sear scallops on one side for two minutes (do not move the scallops around until the two-minute mark!). Flip and cook on the second side for just one minute or until crispy and deep golden.

• Remove scallops to a serving dish, then drizzle with the passion fruit sauce and scatter chiles over the top. Serve with coconut rice or a big green salad with avocado and torn cilantro… and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

SICILY

The full island of Sicily comprises just under 10,000 square miles (roughly comparable to the size of Vermont). The climate is HOT—parts of it are further south than the northern tip of Africa—and dry, swept by the sirocco winds off Africa. As for its wines, frankly, Sicily was not appreciated in the world of fine wine until maybe 20 years ago. The idea that some of Italy’s most iconic, respected, rhetoric-shifting producers would come from this island off the toe of the boot would have been laughed at in the late 20th century. And yet, here we are.

For most of modern wine history, Sicily was known only for commercial bulk wine production and the decidedly no-longer-cool fortified dessert wine, Marsala. But a steady, pragmatic shift toward quality production over quantity, coupled with an intensely renewed dedication to sustainable and organic vineyard practices, pushed Sicily toward its current reputation as trailblazer of innovative, site-specific wines with integrity.

Within this context, two particular areas of Sicily have stood out and are the current focus of any student’s studies on the island’s vinous revitalization: Mt. Etna and Vittoria, the former peering over the northeastern coast and the latter grazing the southeastern shore. Our wines for this quarter hail from exemplary, standard-setting producers within each of these.

Monteleone Etna Bianco 2019

Who: Giulia Monteleone was a wine blogger and journalist when she fell in love with a pre-phylloxera parcel of ash at the foot of the northern side of Mt. Etna. In 2017, she bought it and started her own label with the help of her now-husband Benedetto Alessandro and her father, Enrico.

What: Carricante, an Etna-native variety known for its ability to handle strong diurnal temperature shifts while ripening steadily and evenly as well as maintaining bright acidity even in hot growing conditions. The grape showcases dense citrus character with a cooling herbal and mineral backbone. Since the wines of Etna have gained global critical acclaim, Carricante has become more widely admired.

Where: Mt. Etna is a live and very active—it erupted 11 times in 2021 and most recently in February 2022!—volcano overlooking the eastern shore of Sicily. The wine region of the same name cups its northern, eastern and southern slopes with soil made up entirely of volcanic ash and congealed magma. Grapes are planted to about 1,000 meters, while the summit is around 3,300 meters, the elevation making for a strangely alpine climate here despite Sicily’s overall Mediterranean vibe. And yes: exploding lava and ash do rain down on the vines after eruptions. It’s casual winemaking, you know?

Why: Because this is a fine-tuned example of Etna’s avant garde crop of winemakers working with what might be Sicily’s most exciting white grape variety grown in what is definitely its most exciting denomination of origin.

With: Sicilian seafood stew; fritto misto; season two of White Lotus (it’s currently being filmed adjacent to Etna!)

Cornelissen Susucaru Rosso Terre Siciliane 2020

Who: Frank Cornelissen, a native Belgian who fell in love with Etna and became one of the original (and hotly debated) “natural” producers when he started his label in 2001 with a commitment to beyond-organic vineyard practices and zero sulfur additions (EVER) in his winemaking. Twenty years ago, this was completely abnormal in “fine wine” conversations, and wine pros either loved or hated the wines’ extreme mineral expression combined with their volatility and inconsistency. Today, with “natty” wines abounding, wine pros either love or hate that as he’s continued to hone his craft and stick adamantly to his approach, the wines are ever more pure, stable and consistent.

What: Nerello Mascalese, Etna’s most prominent red variety, known for intense tannins and acidity plus a savory, herbal character that aligns well with the smoky minerality signature to this volcanic region.

Where: The northern slopes of wild Mt. Etna (see above). Cornelissen boasts some of the highest elevation plantings here, all the way up to 1,000 meters, interspersed with olive groves and orchards to promote polyculture, plus buckwheat grown as a cover crop. For reasons that might be political(?!), he chooses to label using the generic Terre Siciliane place designation rather than Etna.

Why: Because no conversation about Etna is complete without touching on Cornelissen, one of the original trailblazers in the area and still definitively one of its most forward-thinking.

With: roasted chicken thighs with baby potatoes, jammy tomatoes and oregano; fire-roasted eggplant drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, balsamic reduction and toasted pine nuts; fireworks

Occhipinti SP68 ROSSO Terre Siciliane 2020

Who: Arianna Occhipinti, niece of Giusto Occhipinti (the O in the prestigious, biodynamic COS label of Sicilian wines), who first got bit by the wine bug when she went with Giusto to the huge Italian wine fair, Vinitaly, at age 16. From there she studied winemaking and ultimately came home to start her own label—with one hectare of abandoned vines in her village! If only we could all be so lucky…—at just 22 years old. Arianna’s emphasis on sustainable farming and minimal cellar intervention combined with her deftly elegant wines quickly made her a headliner and darling of the new Sicilian wine movement.

What: A classic local blend of 70% Frappato and 30% Nero d’Avola… only, Arianna flips the proportions required by the Italian government for a classic Cerasuolo di Vittoria, meaning she can legally only call it a “Terre Siciliane” or basic, Sicilian table red. Frappato is known for its lighter body, fresh acidity and vibrant red fruit (think California Pinot Noir), while Nero d’Avola is richer, more dark plummy, black cherry and tobacco-laden. Since Arianna prefers brighter, more delicate wines, an atypical emphasis on Frappato serves her overall stylistic goals.

Where: Vittoria, Sicily, about 12 miles from the beach and therefore benefitting from a quintessential Mediterranean climate and chalky, sandy soils. Specifically, this comes from just off the SP68, or Strada Provinciale 68, which heads north out of the town of Vittoria proper, passing Arianna’s home and vineyards.

Why: Because Arianna’s ambition and fresh-faced approach (both literally—considering she was a young 20-something woman when she started out—and figuratively) undeniably helped shape this millennium’s Sicilian wine renaissance.

With: grilled lamb chops and amogghio sauce; black lentil salad with pistachios and lots of herbs; beach houses

Local SICILIAN recipe pairing:
grilled lamb chops with amogghio sauce

Serves 4 as a main course, ideally paired with crusty bread or focaccia and a big green salad

Ingredients:

• 8 lamb loin chops

• 1/4 c olive oil

• 2 cloves garlic, smashed

• 1 tbsp kosher salt

• fresh black pepper

• 1 rosemary sprig

• 1 pound San Marzano or plum tomatoes, scored with a small X at the top

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 tbsp lemon juice

• 1 tbsp fresh oregano, chopped

• 1 tbsp fresh mint, chopped

• 1 pinch crushed red pepper flake

• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

• salt and pepper, to taste

Steps:

• Mix the olive oil, crushed garlic, rosemary and salt and pepper, then rub all over the lamb chops and let marinate for at least 4 hours or up to 12.

• Bring a large pot of water to boil, then drop the scored tomatoes into the water. Leave for approximately one minute, or until the skins begin to split. Using a slotted spoon, remove the tomatoes and place in an ice water bath to cool and stop the cooking.

• Meanwhile, mix the lemon juice and minced garlic together and let rest for at least 10 minutes. Fun fact: this denatures the allinase in raw garlic, preventing allicin (that sharp bite that can upset some people’s tummies) being made, so the flavor isn’t as harsh or spicy and won’t give you agita.

• Peel the skins off the tomatoes, slice into quarters lengthwise, and de-seed.

• In a food processor or blender, pulse the tomatoes with the garlic-lemon mixture until a barely-chunky salsa is achieved.

• Stir in the fresh herbs, chili flake, EVOO, salt and pepper. Feel free to add more of any of these to taste. The salsa should be bold and very flavorful!

• Remove lamb chops from marinade and grill over medium-high heat for 3 minutes per side. Check temperature and grill 2-6 minutes longer for more well-done chops.

• Serve lamb chops with ammoghio salsa and any chilled bottle of Sicilian wine!