CSA Box Pairings: September 17, 2015
Taking the last bits of summer and pulling them into a weather-is-cooling-down, almost-autumn recipe is the best way to embrace the changing seasons, to indulge a little while still keeping life simple. When Josiah was gone in LA this week, Stevie made up a recipe similar to the roasted pepper pasta below and consumed both her evening portion and the one intended for next day's lunch all in one #latenighteats sitting. Oh well! It's delicious.
Recipe: Pasta with Roasted Red Peppers and Goat Cheese from New York Times Cooking
Pair with: Yves Cuilleron Les Vignes d'à Côté Marsanne Rhône Valley ($24)
Our new darling wine grape is Marsanne. As temperatures drop and you reach for your sweater, Marsanne is that transitional white: ripe, full, soft and full of yellow apple notes, orange marmalade, tons of stoniness, a little thyme and not too much acidity. Its weight and roundness match up to the creaminess of the goat cheese sauce in this pasta, while the ripe fruit hums along with the fruitiness of the roasted peppers. The whole thing, in fact, is like putting a warm sweater onto your palate. Yves Cuilleron is an icon in the northern Rhône Valley, renowned for making separate wines from parcels of vineyards so that the site's terroir can shine through. His "Les Vignes" label is always from less prestigious sites but given the same TLC as his "great" crus, despite coming to our shelves at a much more approachable price point!
Recipe: Warm Ricotta with Roasted Grapes from Food & Wine
Pair with: Saetti Rosso Viola Lambrusco 2014 ($19)
Luciano Saetti used to be an egg distributor in Modena, Italy. He traded the eggs for a little plot of vines in Emilia-Romagna, where he organically grows Salamino Lambrusco grapes. After picking them, he makes only enough of this sparkling red wine that he can disgorge by hand by himself in a single day. He adds zero sulfur to his wine (he even drives around a little red truck that says, "Sulfiti? No grazie!") and has a local, clothing-maker friend of his sew up his cloth labels. No joke. This is dry Lambrusco as serious and sensational as it comes. The intense, black grapey-ness of flavor is a dream alongside your sweetly roasted grapes here, and the finely grippy tannins cut right through the palate-coating ricotta. We also love the way the cool chill of this fizzy red contrasts with the warm sweep of cheese. Dinner parties should never start any other way.